Hello. When I last wrote I was in Rishikesh, about to head north along the
Ganga valley to the source of this holiest of rivers, at Gaumekh. From
Rishikesh this is only a distance of 264kms, doesnt sound like much. But it
can take a good 3 days. When we left I did not realise how difficult this
trip would be. Or how beautiful.
The first 100kms to the town of Utarkashi was fairly uneventful, if slow.
Busses in this area seem to average about 15kmh with all the stops that they
make. Very frustrating. Utarkashi is a nice little town. And the last town
of any size along the valley. After here its was just villages and lone
farmers cottages.
After overnighting we set off for the village near the source of the Ganga,
Gangotri. It was on this part of the journey that we learnt we could not
make it all the way to Gangotri as the road had ot yet been cleared of snow
and land slips after winter. This news disheartened us. It would be
frustrating to come so far but to not make it all the way. It was at his
point where we met a man who had quite a tale to tell. He had recently
recovered from Gang green. The doctors were set to amputate his leg. While
he lay in hospital he made a vow that if he recovers he would take some
water from the source of the Ganga and walk with it to the most southerly
point in India, Kanyakimuri, and pour this water into the sea. He recovered.
This walk is a total distance of approx 3500kms. He thought that it would
take him 5 1/2 to 6 months. He was not going to let anything stand in his
way. All he had with him was a copy of the bible, quoran and Bhagavad Gita
and a total commitment. I felt if he could take on such a challange then I
would be able to make it to the source.
We overnighted in a village called Gangnani. Famous for hot springs. Lovely
at night when you can float in these springs gazing at the stars and the
snow capped Himalaya. It was also a beautiful spot for walks. Clean air and
the most stunning of scenery. After a 48 hour stop we headed off by taxi
jeep. We were told that the road was still closed but we decided to walk the
last part to Gangotri, a distance of 10kms. We were also told that Gangotri
was closed and the only places to stay were at ashrams with the holy men.
This didn't faze me. I was sure that things were going to work out. If a man
who has recovered from Gang green can get there then I am sure as hell
reckon that I can as well!
The trip went excellently. The first 30kms or so was perfect. After that we
caught up with the bull dozer which was pushing the last rocks off the road
and into the valley. We were the first Jeep to enter Gangotri this year! We
thanked our driver and set about looking for accomodation. We had an address
of an ashram but Gangotri was a ghost town. During the summer there are many
hotels, restaurants and backpacker places to stay. But during the winter it
closes completely. There is no population here which gave it a very odd
atmosphere. There was one chai shop open for a very small worker population
who were very busy opening the road and clearing snow. Whilst looking for
our ashram we bumped into a group of government workers whose job it was to
open the state guest house and asses any damage. They said we could stay and
again we had a first. First tourists in the guest houses of Gangotri, 2003!
Unfortunately Zoe became ill on the trip up to Gangotri and she felt she
could not make it all the way to Gaumekh, an 18kms walk from Gangotri. I
woke early the next morning to complete the journey. The walk was quite
straight forward. Follow the river! So i was not worried about getting lost.
The weather too, was perfect so I felt confident. Also there was little in
the way of gradient as I was following a river valley. Gangotri is at 3000m,
Gaumekh is at 3800m. As I was walking the scenary around me changed. I
strated off in trees and these soon finished. The path became narrow at
parts, and often it was burried under snow and/or rubble from land slips.
Leaving a bit of a scramble to get to the other side and a bit of a drop to
consider. But these made it more exciting. After 15kms or so I could see the
Glacier that the Ganga comes from. I had never seen a glacier before and its
sight was something to behold. As I got closer and closer I became more and
more excited. Its size was breath taking. Near the glacier there were snow
covered shrines to Shiva from whose dreadlocks the Ganga was brought down
from heaven. I tried to walk right up to the glacier but the snow was
treacherous and the odd rock and chunk of glacier would come crashing down
so I was a little put off. I walked to within a couple of meters of it and
tried to take a photo to show its height. I was a bit wobbily as i kept
sinking in the snow and the river was coming out underneath me but I managed
it any way! I would estimte it to be the hight of a 5 story building and 70
or so meters wide. A big wall of ice. I felt very small. Whilst walking I
felt inspired by the man I met to make my own pilgramage. I filled a bottle
with some of the water from Gaumekh and I shall pour it into the mouth of
the Ganga near Calcutta. Only I shall take a train! My pilgramage is neither
holy or in thanks, just for fun.
The walk back went quickly and I was hungry when I returned. The next day we
set off back down the valley for Haridwar. The spiritual place where the
Ganga is said to leave the Himalaya and flow through the plains, but from
what I could see Rishikesh was where this actually happens.
Haridwar was hot after the mountains. Also very holy. Each evening I would
estimate about 15000 people congregate on the towns bathing ghats to wash
away their sins in the Ganga and to give offerings to the gods. A
spectacular site. The river flows with quite some force and chains have been
placed under bridges in case you get swept away there is something down
stream for you to grab hold of!
After Haridwar we left for Delhi, where I am now. Delhi is a mix of new and
old, rich and poor full of contrasts typical of India. Delhi is split in
two, east and west by the Yanuma River. On the east is the poor half of
Delhi. Slums and homeless. On the west is the rich areas of New Delhi and
Connaught Place. Areas of government buildings and embassys and western
shops and bars (there is even a British pub!) respectively. Whilst here we
went night clubbing and it was different to see rich Indians at play,
spending 200rs for a beer and dancing whilst outside street kids were trying
to beg for 10rs. The club was fun (especially when they played The Punjabi
MC'S!) and the few days of western decadence has been welcome. But after
here it will be nice to get back to the "real" India!
After Delhi we head for Agra and the Taj Mahal and then to Varanasi, another
holy town on the Ganga.
As ever love and keep in touch.
Do be naugty.
Dan
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