Hello!
When I last wrote i was in Delhi on my way to Agra. Delhi is a city that I
found to be very pleasant and not as crazy as I had imagined or been told by
other backpackers. I enjoyed its western treats (ice coffee, mmm!) and the
history surrounding what is an ancient city.
What I can say about Agra will be difficult as words are empty compared with
the beauty of the Taj Mahal. Like Delhi I had been warned that Agra itself
is a nightmare full of touts, rip off merchants and con artists. The reality
that Zoe and I found was very different. As we had heard all of these bad
tales we feared the worst and had alraedy booked our onward tickets from
Agra meaning that we only had two nights. This proved to be a mistake. I
would have enjoyed a longer stay. Our hotel was situated in Taj Ganj a small
district about 300 meters from the Taj Mahal. From our roof top we could see
the Taj and this was my first glimpse of the mausoleum. Taj Ganj is very
laid back. A similar backpacker enclave as Pushkar in Rajasthan with all the
traveller gimmicks and needs (cheap guest houses and internet cafes, etc).
Our first night in Taj Ganj we spent walking around Taj Ganj and to a view
point where one had excelent views of the Taj. On this walk we came to a
small village where a local lead us to a derelict tower where we could get
even better views of the Taj. It was here that he told Zoe that this was the
1st Taj and the Taj mahal the 2nd Taj. I can only assume he meant that the
derelict tower was the resting place of the Aga Khans wife until the Taj was
built! There was no protection or want to preserve the 1st taj. It has been
left to crumble away. I personally feel that it is of historical
significance due to its association with the Taj but India does not seem too
bothered.
On day 2 we got up early to visit the Taj at 6am, when it opens. This proved
to be the perfect time as it was not too hot at this time and not very
crowded as the day trpipers from Delhi do not arrive until later. This gave
me the chance to take some excellent snaps of the Taj without lots of
visitors and to explore with out the crowd. The Taj is magnificent. A place
of indescribable beauty. A must do before leaving this world. We all grow up
seeing pictures of the Taj but these do not convey its size or majesty. An
awesome specticle.
That evening we crossed the Yamuna River to the other bank and watch the sun
setting on the Taj. The view spot is the location of the proposed Black Taj.
The Arga wanted to build another Taj on the opposite bank of the Yamuna for
his own resting place. It was to be an exact mirror of the Taj except in
black. He got as far as the foundations untill his son, fearing the
bankruptcy of the Kingdom overthrew his father and locked him in the nearby
Agra Fort. His cell had a window facing the Taj. This was where the Arga
spent the rest of his days. A sad end and a sad tale associated with
something so beautiful.
After Agra we travelled to Varanasi. A very holy city on the banks of the
Ganges. The city is a popular place for people to die as the Hindu religion
states that if a person dies here he or she will reach mocksha. The release
of the endless cycle of birth and rebirth. The soul will then rise into
heaven and be set free from the illusion that is the earth. The Ganges will
also cleanse the sins of a person who bathes in its holy waters.
From the balcony of our hotel we could see all along the ganges and watch
people bathing and praising the Gods. At night the funeral pyres would burn
and one could see 4 or 5 yellow fires at any time as the devout had reached
mocksha and have their ashes thrown into the Ganges.
I did not bathe in the ganges. Not because I am sin free but because I am
very much aware that the Ganges is far from clean. Just upstream from the
major bathing ghat there is the citys sewage and waste water outflow pipe. I
have read that along certain parts of the Ganges the water is now so dirty
that there is no dissolved oxygen. I was told that being sick after bathing
in the Ganges is a sign of the sins being washed away. I feel that it is
more to do with micro organisms. A test of faith over rationality. Varanasi
is beautiful. The narrow lanes offer hours of pleasure getting lost and
gently ambling by. Soaking up the atmosphere and finding a ghat to people
watch. A very different culture at its most devout. But I hope and wish that
India would try and clean up this river that is so important to its roots
and culture.
From Varanasi we travelled to Bodhgaya. The place where Buddha attained
enlightenment 2500 years ago ish. I expected Bodhgaya to be very busy as it
one of the most significant places of buddhist history. It was not. We came
in summer which is keeping the crowds away. Temps there can reach 50. While
we were there we experianced a cool snap (40!) so we were lucky.
Bodhgaya has many temples from each independant buddhist nation and Tibet.
The Dalai Lama often visits in winter. They act like religious embassys for
their respective nation. The actual tree where the Buddha attained
enlightenment is still there (of sorts). During the 13th century a Sri
Lankan princess took a cutting from the tree and re grew the tree. The
original tree later died in the 18th Century, so to complete the circle a
cutting was taken from the tree in Sri Lanka and re planted on the site of
the original tree. At the tree there is a modest garden and shrines. It is
all very understated compared with the flamboyance of Christianity. Zoe and
I sat under the tree and contemplated its history and appreciated its shade.
It is in a most peaceful spot. We then took leaves from the tree, one I
still have in my address book. Added to the Ganga water I am carrying i am
now collecting a number of religious relics! Any splinters from the cross
out there?!
ALso at Bodhgaya is an 80ft statue of Buddha meditating. The most amazing
thing happened when we were there. Right over the Buddhas head, and
something I had not seen before was a solar halo. This is a fairly common
occourance caused by ice in the upper atmosphere. It created a pefect
rainbow like circle at quite a distance around the sun and a dark area in
its borders with the sun at the centre. It looked like a heavenly eye gazing
down on us and the Buddha.
After witnessing this phenomenum we headed for lunch only for something a
little crazy to happen. My last job in Oz was on a watermelon farm picking
melons. Zoe and I sat at our table when we noticed sat next to us my old
boss with a friend! Zoe and I both knew Mark as Bowen is a small town and it
really threw us. To travel all this way and bump into, by chance, someone
you know I think is extraordinary. We talked about the farm and Bowen and
our travel tales in India! This truly is a small world!
From Bodhgaya we travelled to Darjeeling. And not with out incident. After
Varanasi Zoe and I travelld for the first time on a schedule. Time and money
is running low and trains are always full unless you pre-book by a week or
so, and sleeping on the floor in an Indian train is not fun. Therefore we
booked all our tickets right trough to Calcutta. I have one piece of advice,
no matter what, never ever plan anything in India!
Our trip from Bodhgaya took us through Bihar, a very poor and corrupt state
in India also known as a bit of a wild west state. Indians travelling from
west to east breath a little more easily when the train crosses the West
Bengal border. Its capital, Patna, was where we planned to change bus for
train. We spoke of our plans to our friends in the restaurant when the owner
over heard us. "Do not travel to Patna," he said quite firmly. On the day we
planned to travel through Patna there is to be a mass demonstration against
the Bihar government and its corrupt ways. Thousands of people have been
pouring into Patna to take part in the demonstration. Various groups had
"commandered" busses to ship extra supporters in. Bus companys were furious.
The situation was not good. The police didn't care as they are just as
corrupt as the government. The restaurant owner showed photos in the paper
of trains smoothered in people as they wanted to attended this rally. People
were all over the roof, the walls, sat on the engine. The police did
nothing. As the restaurant owner continued to tell us about the situation he
told us about the Lathis. Big bamboo sticks designed for hitting people. It
seems that these are a symbol of unity and defiance for the people and most
were carrying them. The more people we asked the more peole said don't go.
We were stuck. We tried to change our ticket but could not. We were told
that it would be impossible to get to Patna to make our connection. We were
also told that the situation was not safe there. We felt frustrated as
normally we would wait but now we were on a schedule and could not. The more
we looked into the situation, however, the more ambiguous people seemed.
Some gave terrible predictions. Some said it woiuld be alright. We found a
bus that was running and decided to go for it.
We got to Patna and found it to be busy. As expected. We were told not to
walk anywhere and thought it wise to get a rickshaw. We got to the railway
station to find chaos. Thousnds of people with sticks milling about the
place. We reached the enquiry desk and asked about our train. It was due to
leave at 10pm. At first we were told 2am. We were later told 5 or 6am. There
was no way we could sit on the platform all night and I didn't fancy going
about the city hostel hunting. Our time in Darjeeling was limited to just 2
days and this would take one from us. I tried to find a bus whilst Zoe
waited in the station reataurant. Remarkably quiet as it was reserved for
first class passengers and we foreigners can get away with being in places
we have not paid for. I took a rickshaw back to the bus stand, only to be
stopped by a wild eyed group of Lathi holding excitable protestors. They
took a special interest in where I was going and what I was doing.
Especially as I was foriegn. Part of me had that "here we go" sinking
feeling that often preceeds trouble but I felt that being direct and firm
would avert trouble. I told them I was off to the bus stand and back to the
train station. They let me be. Whilst at the bus stand I learnt that no
busses were leaving until the following morning. A waste of time. I returned
to the train station and paid my rickshaw man way over the odds as if there
was any trouble I wanted him to peddle quick! On returning I notinced that a
body had been left outside the ticket office. I have no explanation for his
presence. He was lying on a stretcher, covered except for his feet by a
white sheet. No one was with him. No authorities were looking after him. He
was left there with a few rupees flicked on his sheet. I now had a feeling
of not wanting to be in Patna anymore.
Near the body was a private bus company. He told me that there was a 99
percent chance of a bus leaving for Darjeeling at 12.30. I felt relieved. I
cashed in my train ticket and bought the bus ticket. I told Zoe and we
waited for 12.30. I was had. This was a scheme to get me on the morning bus,
as at 12.20 we learnt that our bus was not running. I felt angry. I got a
refund off the bus man and headed back for the ticket office. Zoe then
noticed that the body had been joined by another on a trolley. Feet sticking
out. The first had most of what few rupees that were flicked on him removed.
This was freaky! We headed back to the enquiry desk and recieved some
excellent news. There was a different train heading our way at 2am. We
bought general class tickets and felt that our luck was improving. We headed
back to the restaurant (now closed, but it had a balcony at its front) and
watched thousands of Lathi wielding men going back and forth. At two we
left. A very uncomfortable night was spent sleeping next to the carriage
exit and toilet (no other room) but we were on our way.
Darjeeling was perfect after all the chaos and heat. It was cool and calm
and has probably the best pub in India. If you are that way drink at Joeys!
A very easy going and sociable place. Has the atmosphere of an old English
pub!
Darjeeling at the right time of year has magnificent views of Kanchenjunga
(the worlds third highest mountain) and even Everest over 100kms away can be
spotted on the clearest of days. While we were there it was cloudy season.
Views of 100cms are the best you will get, and then only fleetingly! When I
left for India I had planned to go to Nepal but after visiting Darjeeling I
have realised that would be dissapointing to go now. There are no views as
the clouds are thick and the rainy season is not far off.
As a consequence I will not go to Nepal. October and November are the best
months.
While in Darjeeling we visited its zoo. Most zoos in India I would not set
foot in. But this has had good results in captive breading of some Himalayan
big cats such as the Leopard and Snow Leopard and some from further afield,
such as the Siberian Tiger. The enclosures are fairly good, quite large and
lots of greenery and thought put into them. One thing I did not like was the
proximity of the paths to the enclosures. Witnessing idiots bang on the
cages and throw things at the animals to attract their attention made me
angry.
After Darjeeling I headed for Shillong in the north east. This is the birth
place of my grandmother. In 1908, the year of her birth it was the capital
of Assam. During the 70's Assam split in 2 and it is now the Capital of a
new state Meghalaya. Our trip here was a bit longer than expected (boarded a
train heading west and not east, cost us about 8 to 10 hours as it messed up
all other connections! Very frustrating). As a result of the train mishap I
met another english traveller, Gary, who was on his way to Shillong with his
girlfriend, Hemma, for the exact same reason! Another remarkable coincidence
I thought.
We overnighted in Guwahati, the present capital of Assam. Horrible place.
Very run down. We were warned whilst walking back from our evening meal not
to linger on the streets as there is a big problem with rebles and bandits.
They want Assam to be independant and hide in the jungle just accross the
Bhutanese border. At night many roads in the 2 states are not safe to
travel. As foriegners we were seen as potential targets.
We woke the next day and hired a jeep up to Shillong (it is a hill station,
popular with the Brits during the Raj as an escape from the heat.) I
expected the roads to be terrible and Shillong to be run down like Guwahti.
The truth is very different. Shillong is a lovely town. Clean. Modern. Not
over run with rubbish. The opposite of Guwahti. On arrival I started tracing
any possible reletives. All I had was my grand mothers maiden name (Booth)
and a photo and address of where she lived in the 1920's.
I have a tip. If ever you are in a town half way around the world looking
for long lost reletives with the bare minimum of information start your
search in an off licence. The results will be amazing. I told the
proprietor my story. He recognised the name Booth. Phoned some friends who
also knew the name. Put the 2 of us in the back of his van. Chauffered us
about and we met some more people who knew the name and within 2 or 3 hours
I was on the phone to Estha Booth. The Niece of my Grandmother! I could not
believe how easy and how quickly I had achieved such results. We planned to
meet the next day.
It turns out that I have a large family in Shillong. They took me in and put
us up. We talked about the family and we learnt many things from one
another. Estha has a family tree and I have learnt that I have family born
all over the world! Great Uncles in Pakistan and Myanmar. More family in the
US. My stock is truly global! I spent a truly magical 2 days with them. They
showed me photos of Dad as a kid. A letter my grand mother wrote during the
war while she was in Singapore. All very interesting.
On the second day they took me to Cherapungee, the 4th highest waterfall in
the world (which again I could not see due to cloud!), the wettest place on
earth (20 times the rain of London!) and a spot next to the Bangladesh
border where from the hills of Meghalaya you can see for miles over the
plains of northern Bangladesh.
The people of Meghalaya are very different from the rest of India. the North
east is quite different from the rest of India. People describe the rest of
India as the "Mainland". A very narrow strip joins the north east to the
rest of India inbetween Bhutan and Bangladesh. The people and the feel of
the north east is more akin to south east asia rather than India. Being in
Meghalaya felt like a new country. The society in Meghalaya is also very
different. It is very tribal, consisting of 4 (I think) different tribes.
The Khasi people are quite unique (a group my reletives belong to)This is
one of the few peoples on earth where the property and name is passed down
through the generations by the woman as opposed to the men.
I feel honoured and excited to have these people as my family. They are
truly nice people.
Whilst in Shillong I stumbled into a bit of a family fued! I have another
relitive (A grand son of one of my great uncles) Sean who is a bit of a
loose cannon. I think his wild ways do not go eye to eye with Ruth and Estha
but I had a fun evening with him.
As far as I know, Gary has been less succesful, but he remains in Shillong
still hunting.
After Shillong we left for Calcutta. Where I am now. I have only spent one
full day here. Calcutta is OK but I am not overly mad on the place. It looks
a bit like Bangkok. On our first day here Zoe and I went to the botanical
garden and saw the worlds largest (by circumference, 400m) tree. It is a
fig. From a distance it looks like a small copse! The fig throws roots down
from its branches and slowly marches out from its original trunk. We also
visited the Victoria memorial. A huge display of British raj wealth. A
stunning place.
This trip is coming to an end. I will leave for NZ soon. Zoe left for
Brisbane this morning. All I have to do is get a ticket for NZ and see the
mouth of the Ganges and pour the water that I collected at Gaumukh. India is
an amazing place and I have many thoughts and impressions. It is also very
tiring and I am looking forward to the complete contrast of NZ.
I will write soon with the last installment.
Till then ta ta!
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